When it comes to jewelry metals, two things matter.
- metal type
- metal thickness
Today, we will be exploring the four metal thicknesses in jewelry:
1. Plated: The thinnest. Made by electroplating a layer of precious metal 0.5-2.5 microns thick onto a base metal. Plating is industry standard because it makes jewelry affordable; however, plating is often so thin that it eventually wears off, exposing the base metal beneath. When purchasing plated jewelry, you need to pay attention to the base metal because you'll be in contact with it eventually. Make sure it's high-quality and skin-safe.
If your jewelry is plated with yellow gold, rose gold, or black gold, you'll want to treat it with extra care to prevent color fading.
At Murmur, our sterling silver jewelry is plated with platinum. Platinum is brighter and stronger than silver, but both are "silver" in color, so the color won't change as the platinum fades. Platinum plating affordably increases the strength and brilliance of our silver pieces.
2. Vermeil: Vermeil is noteworthy for its very specific criteria: vermeil is always gold over sterling silver - any other combination of metals is not vermeil.The gold must be at least 10 karats in purity and at least 2.5 microns in thickness (a decent layer). Vermeil offers better longevity than plating but is still susceptible to wear. For gold lovers, it's a middle-ground option for those seeking affordability with higher durability than plating.
3. Filled: Filled jewelry involves a generous layer of precious metal bonded to a base metal under high pressure and heat. The precious metal must constitute at least 5% of the item's total weight - a hefty amount. It is highly resistant to wear and tarnishing, making it optimal for everyday wear. While often much more expensive than plated and vermeil options, filled jewelry offers a more affordable alternative to solid pieces, with much of the same appearance and longevity. Filled jewelry is ideal for those looking for high-quality, durable jewelry at a mid-range price point.
4. Solid: Made entirely from a single metal. The most durable option, solid jewelry is made to last a lifetime and beyond, often becoming heirloom pieces. The most expensive option due to the use of solid, quality metal throughout. Perfect for engagement rings, wedding bands, and other significant pieces meant to last and possibly be passed down through generations
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To summarize, metal thickness is a balancing act between affordability and durability.
When you purchase plated jewelry, you should note the base metal. If you have sensitive skin, there are certain base metals you should avoid, such as nickel, brass, iron, and copper.
Also, if you purchase plated jewelry with a colored metal plated on top of a base metal of a different color - that piece is prone to fading and should be treated with delicateness and care.
